Guma Lagoon takes us 5 hours from Maun. It’s the mid section of the Okavango “Pan Handle”. We’re here for some R&R downtime and a spot of tiger fishing; and the odd beer!
As we leave the tarmac and head for the lodge, the road becomes a waterway! Mainly sand, deep water but not so bad, just slow going. The Landy gets through fine but John’s Land Cruiser gets stuck about 3 kms from the lodge. Landy to the rescue! We tow a rather dejected looking John out and of course make a celebration and fanfare of the occasion!
The lodge has a beautiful setting, on the edge of the Kavango river with stunning sunrises. It’s a great place to chill and the owners, Guy & Bev are very welcoming.
Out we go on the boat for a half day’s fishing. The area is stunning, papyrus fringed waterways, the odd croc, a hippo or two, plus amazing birdlife. It’s a long but interesting journey to find the best fishing spots. It’s not long before I get 3 catches, all of which get away before we can land them in the boat. Tiger’s are renown for jumping out the water and flicking the hook from their mouth. John catches one, the skipper lands a massive bream and that’s about it. We head back and at the 11th hour there’s a shoal close to a bank. I cast, get a bite and land a beauty! It’s catch and release of course, we just take some pics and let him go. Voila!!
On the way back we spot the elusive Sitatunga ( a very rare antelope ). This is a first for everyone and a good excuse to crack open a bottle!
The camp dog, Diesel became our friend and they have a Wood Owl that is tame. He also adopted us; he flew around our camp all night and was rewarded with chicken and other owlie delights!
NAMIBIA – NAYE NAYE CONSERVANCY, 22nd APRIL
It’s a long sandy road from Guma to Dobe (the border between Bots and Namibia). It takes us around 4 hours but the border is tiny, friendly and a breeze. Naye Naye is a bit of a wild card. We’ve heard mixed reports and it’s so far off the beaten track, hardly anyone knows of it.
We arrive at Tsumkwe Country Lodge in Bushmanland, having seen a few elephant en route. This place is not much to write home about and the staff seem to know diddly squat about Naye Naye! This village is supposed to be the hub of the San (Bushman) arts and crafts but it’s all quite run down and there is little evidence of any authentic San settlements. All a bit sad, the locals appear impoverished and disconnected.
We venture out to try and find the Pans that are to the south of the area. It becomes evident after an hour’s travelling on pretty wet, rough roads that there’s no game about. I don’t see any spoor or tracks, no signs of the wild around here. I think we’ve come at the wrong time of year, probably better when it’s really dry, around August to October.
We decide to tail it back before the night swallows us up – like it did at Khwai!
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