Sawubona Africa


1st October

Shawa N’gundu Manor – Africa House

The visit to Shiwa Manor proved as fascinating and surreal as we could have wished for. We started off with a walk to family graveyard. This overlooks the spot where Sir Stewart Gore-Brown first set eyes on the majestic vista of the lake and decided this was where he was going to build his African dream. See the photo……..they called him Chipembele. That means Rhino (Black) in the local lingo, as he was famed for his short fuse and explosive temper. Whatever he was, Shiwa is certainly a tribute to the man’s devotion, endurance and determination. The house is full of memoirs and relics from that bygone romantic and mystical era and the family have done a marvellous job of preserving everything in mint condition (even including his afternoon tea service). We had an inspiring tour from Jo, the wife of Charlie, Gore-Brown’s Grandson, who has mastered the art of bringing it all to life in 3D!

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We decided to push on and get the miles behind us. We stopped the night at Forest Inn, fairly non descript and overpriced.

2nd October

Another long day of driving. We stopped at Fringella Farm to stock up en route. Very pleasant and great food. The pork sausages are to die for! After that we had a brief stop in Lusaka and visited the Crafts market and bought a couple of things to take home.

Eventually we made Mazabuka and stopped the night at the Golden Pillow – good value.

3rd October to 8th October

Livingstone & Victoria Falls

The guide book was no help in finding us somewhere to stay. After a few dodgy places, we decided to stay at Bush Front Lodge. Really nice place, good internet connection (honestly!) – can’t believe I don’t have to make a cup of tea waiting for a page to refresh!

We are right next to the Falls and spent yesterday (5th October) visiting the Falls. We managed to walk all the way out to Livingstone Island (you do so at your own risk) right on the edge of the Falls. We had to skirt streams and small rapids but it was well worth the effort for the views. I forgot my cap and by 11am the sun was burning my bonce big time!

We covered the whole of the Falls area from the Zambian side. The Boiling Pot was an especially awesome sight. The Baboons here don’t give a damn! They walk right alongside you but don’t seem to bother anyone; they’re just habituated to humans I guess.

The Falls was quite a contrast to when we visited (Zimbabwe) last April. then it was in full spate and was a thundering torrent. We got drenched trying to get close to the falls. This time the Falls were fairly tranquil in comparison. It was nice to experience the two extremes.

The Landy goes in for a service tomorrow and the following day we make tracks for Namibia.

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Categories: Safaris, ZambiaTags: , ,

8 comments

  1. Hey you guys look like you have had an amazing adventure. Can’t wait to hear all your stories when you get back, so u will have to come stay with us for a few days. Sure Emma will need some retail therapy by then. And jus love your photographs Charlie, when we get more time together, you gonna have to teach me how to take them so beautifully!! Be safe, hope the landie behaves, lotsa love Helen and Carlo.

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    • Thanks Helen. Your Gaff is on the itinerary and probably the best water hole we will visit on the whole trip! We’ll be with you around mid to end November.

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  2. So pleased you are having such a great time – how could you not? Great pics once again Charlie – makes us all long to be back in Africa. Safe onward travels. Love the Garmies

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  3. You are starting to sound like an extract from a Paul Theroux novel. What a great experience.

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  4. Hi Charlie….which way are you returning from Namibia? Via Bushmanland and Ghansi/Trans Kalahari or south all the way down? If you head south then don’t you want to add the Cape/ Garden route and return via the Transkei?. That way you can break your journey for a few days and try some good wine and stay in the
    Cape with us? Best Chris and Auriel

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  5. Hi Chris & Auriel………….thanks for the very tempting offer! We’ve already booked Kghalaghadi for the way home and entering via Mata Mata. We will definitely exploit your generosity next time around 🙂

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  6. HI Steve……..we had an amazing sighting at Mamili Namibia, will post it soon. Thanks for keeping the faith! 🙂

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